Dolphin Watching et al.

One bright sunny morning, I took a dolphin watching tour. It was more expensive than what the Lonely Planet had indicated, but I suppose that was to be expected. It was supposed to be 200 rupees for a group of 4 or more, but since I went alone, it cost me 400 rupees.

We did see dolphins; there might have been one pod or four, I'm not sure. The first pod was a much lighter gray than the others, which were almost black. I got the distinct impression that we were annoying them. They would surface a couple of times and then proceed to dive down for a while, as though hiding. I imagine they must hate the idea that they are being observed and that we were disturbing their quietude; the noise coming from the many motors on the water could have been pleasant. I managed to get a few shots in, but they pale in comparison to the shots I took in New Zealand.
I promise! This is a dolphin!

The captain, Ambrose, was really friendly. He thought I came from Israel, especially because of my curly hair. I had asked a local woman the previous day who she considered were among the most difficult tourists. Her answer was immediate: Israelis. I find it an interesting to find out how locals feel about travelers. I remember asking the same question in Thailand. Their answers were the Germans. In both cases, their answers were based upon how they were treated by these tourists. The most common complaint revolved around rudeness and arrogance and the fact that they tipped badly.

My guide, Ambrose

To return to the topic at hand...after exhausting our efforts in getting close to the dolphins, we puttered around Butterfly Beach, called that because it's sandwiched between two mountains that can be perceived as the wings of a butterfly. I was told that there were monkeys on Monkey Island (one of the "wings"), but we were not to be lucky enough that day to see them (a few days later, I saw them chilling in the trees as I sunbathed).

View of Palolem from the sea

The rest of the day was relaxing and warm, the water cool. I lounged around and eventually went to bed only to be woken up in the dead of night by a parliamentary meeting held by a pack of dogs. Or I guess it could very conceivably have been a night at the stock exchange. The barks, yips, howls and growls kept me from falling asleep until 5:00a.m. But if it isn't a meeting amongst the canines, it's the cawing of crows having their own congregation in the trees around the beach huts. Oh, the joys of nature!

The next day was to be another adventure in and of itself. Yes, ladies and gentlemen, I was fleeced! And how! I was minding my own business having breakfast at one of the many restaurants on the beach when a man approached me and offered to sell me a newspaper. I was told it cost 30 rupees. I gave him 50, since I didn't have anything smaller. He handed me 10 rupees and he said that he didn't have any more change. I told him I would wait as he went to get it. I was told it would take 10 minutes. Being the stubborn person that I am. I waited. And I waited. And I waited. One and a half hours later he returned, not to see me, but to continue up and down the beach selling his wares. I'm sure that he had figured I would no longer be there, but I was! I called him over and asked for my change. I was very angry. He asked as much and I answered in the affirmative. He apologized with a little smile and left. Indians are very charming, even when they are in the wrong!

It was only a few hours later, when I went to have a drink somewhere and was talking to the owner of one of the beach huts that I found out I had been fleeced. 30 rupees! He laughed. He told me newspapers cost 3 rupees. He showed me where the price was indicated on the front page of the newspaper. The man had scratched off the price. I hadn't even noticed. How embarrassing! Oh well, I suppose that it was part of the tourist experience. Now that I had had that experience, I was hoping that I would be that much wiser for future encounters.

At the end of the day, it's not as though 30 rupees is all that much. I was not against paying that price. My issue was being taken advantage of. Never a pleasant feeling, but I was able to laugh about it....eventually!

On that same day I met some tourists who were raving about an Ayurvedic massage they had had. I decided to try it out. I love massages. And I love trying massages from all different parts of the world. The Swedish...which is so relaxing you can fall asleep. The Thai...which twists you in a whole bunch of awkward and painful positions so that you wonder when it will end. But afterwards you feel light and relaxed. The Korean...which utilizes some aspects of the Swedish and Thai and adds the bu huang towards the end (see my bu huang experience on the Korean Times blog). A painful ending to an otherwise pretty good massage.

So now the famous Ayurvedic massage. A traditional form of massage, they use essential oils and elements of yoga and meditation to help relax the body as well as eliminate toxins. It was a wonderful experience. The young woman worked through some tough spots on my body and the smell of the heated oils relaxed and rejuvenated me. She finished the massage with a head and scalp massage, thoroughly infusing my hair with the oil.

Over the next month I was to have two more of these massages, but they were not as good. Generally, you are completely naked in a type of plastic basin-like table. There are no towels used. So with the oil all over your body, you end up sliding all around the table, only managing to stay on because the edges of the table rise up a couple inches on each side. My first massage was on a regular table with towels, so I wasn't as uncomfortable, but I suspect that it was a modern version of this form of massage. You know... adapt to the foreign "palate" type of thing.

Well, that's all for today. A series of disjointed tales, but hopefully you found something of interest within!
One of the many ( non doctored) gorgeous Goan sunsets.